The CycleKarter's Wheel Bible (always a work in progress, nowhere near done... check back often. 4:03 PM 2/23/2023)
Here, you'll find every single thing I've discovered about the CycleKart Wheels. (you know, them round things that go UNDER the car?)

Everything here, HAS either been done and proven, or is valid information. Hope you find it useful.

If you have used something else that worked, please let us know so we can add it to this list for all cyclekarters to benefit from. email me. kawood100@gmail.com

Also, the purpose of this is known and SIMPLE things one can do to make it work. The items shown here, are usually (OR VERY CLOSE TO) BOLT ON, ready to go, solutions.

17 Inch Front Wheels that have been used (36 Spoke)
Front Wheel/MFG Inner Bore (of wheel hub) Bearing / Part # Axle / Spindle Size Where you'll find it
Honda Trail 90/CT110 OEM 17" 36 Spoke

 37mm (usually found) MR190537 LLB C-3 3/4" https://www.Johnsonbearing.com
Honda Trail 90/CT110 OEM 17" 36 spoke

 35mm (less common, but do exist for OEM) 6202-2RS-12 3/4" https://www.vxb.com/
Honda Trail 90/CT110 VKC (union cycle) 17" 36 spoke

 35mm 6202-2RS-12 3/4" https://www.vxb.com/
Honda Trail 90/CT110 OEM 17" 36 spoke

 35mm (less common, but do exist for OEM) 99502H (most common bearing in the known universe) 5/8" https://www.gokartsupply.com/bearings.htm
Honda Trail 90/CT110 VKC (union cycle) 17" 36 spoke

 35mm 99502H (most common bearing in the known universe) 5/8" https://www.gokartsupply.com/bearings.htm
Hodaka Ace 100 17" front wheel 36 spoke (yes, HODAKA LOL) Late 1960's to early 70's

 32.03mm NSK Auto Bearing 19BSW07 19x32x7

NOTE: Bearing does not have seals. 		3/4" https://www.motionindustries.com/

Inquire, they have to order from Japan
1969 Yamaha, L5T Trail Master, GS5 80 CC

1967 Yamaha YL1 Twin Jet

1966 Yamaha YG51 80 CC

Note: The Hub used on these wheels can also be found on 1972 Yamaha MX125, LS2 100, At2, At1, At, RT, CT and DT models with the 18" rim. Hub is the same. 		37 mm MR190537 LLB C-3

 3/4" https://www.Johnsonbearing.com


Currently researching Suzuki TS50 wheels, they had 17 inch fronts. more common in the UK & Germany, but nearly identical to Honda Trail 90 wheels. 36 spokes too. However, the hub bearing area is only 30MM. Finding a bearing might be tough. To work as fronts, the bearing would have to have a 30MM OD, and for the 5/8 axle, a 15.875mm .625" inner dia,... for the 3/4 axle, would be a 19.05 mm or .75" ID

Don't count on this one. Making Rears from them is however possible if you have a lathe.



17 Inch Front Wheels that have been used (28 Spoke)
Front Wheel/MFG Inner Bore (of wheel hub) Bearing / Part # Axle / Spindle Size Where you'll find it
Mid 1980's Kawasaki KX80 Front Rims (28 spoke)

 pending info pending info 20mm pending info



Front Wheel Hubs and Rim Compatability (36 Spoke)
Front Hub # of spokes Rim it could be laced with
Honda Trail 90, ct110, super cub

These hubs can be found on 16" all the way to the 19" rims on many 60's & 70's honda trail bikes. They are all the same hub.

 36 Virtually ANY 17 Rim with 36 Spokes

Known Successful pairings:
Takasago Alumium, commonly found on Yamaha YZ80 and Kawasaki KX80, early 1980's
Hodaka Ace 100 17" front wheel 36 spoke

Late 1960's to early 70's.

 36 Any Honda OEM 17", VKC, UNION Cycle 17", Takasago Alumium (as above)



Rear Wheels (not written... hold please.)
(a little tricker of course.. front wheels are the easy part. This section will be a tad large when we put it up) ... in progress... 6:01 PM 11/14/2020


Rear Hub Adapters and the 1" axle

One big huge problem everyone has is those rear wheel hubs. Even though the entire cyclekarting theory is to make it yourself, many just can't get that done. So, here's a few things.

Hub you have What Hub Adapter you could use Where to get it
Honda Trail 90/CT110, Super Cub 36 spoke FRONT or REAR HUB (VKC hubs too) VKC Hub Adapter Vintagekartco.com DISCONTINUED
Honda Trail 90/CT110, Super Cub 36 spoke FRONT or REAR HUB (VKC hubs too) Alternate Manufacturer of the exact same part VKC offers Contact: Mark. Renegademetalllc@gmail.com 918-698-1560
Honda Trail 90/CT110, Super Cub 36 spoke FRONT or REAR HUB (VKC hubs too) Azusa Adapter hub - Azusa part #2289, zinc plated steel. 1" bore, 1/4" keyway, no step. (this is a hub that works with most wheels, but you have to file down the edges of the studs to fit.) Azusaparts.com
Honda Trail 90/CT110, Super Cub 36 spoke FRONT or REAR HUB (VKC hubs too) Azusa Adapter hub - Azusa part #2282, zinc plated steel. 1" bore, 1/4" keyway, STEPPED down to 3/4". (this is a hub that works with most wheels, but you have to file down the edges of the studs to fit.) Azusaparts.com


18" FRONT Wheels (for the Edwarian Cyclekarts)

Wheel/MFG Bearing Bore of hub Bearing / Part # Axle / Spindle size Where to get the bearing
Late 60's Yamaha LS2 100, also found on later LT2, DT100, AT1, CT1, HT1, TY175, CT3, MX100, TTR125 and CT2 models. Common sizes were 18 x 1.40 and 18 x 1.60 37MM (deep outer bearing hole, can add 3rd outer bearing) MR190537 LLB C-3 3/4" https://www.Johnsonbearing.com


18" REAR Wheels (for the Edwarian Cyclekarts)

Wheel/MFG Bearing Bore of hub Bearing / Part # Axle / Spindle size Where to get the bearing (if needed) / Hub Adapter
Late 60's Yamaha LS2 100 FRONT RIMS, also found on later LT2, DT100, AT1, CT1, HT1, TY175, CT3, MX100, TTR125 and CT2 models. Common sizes were 18 x 1.40 37MM (deep outer bearing hole, can add 3rd outer bearing) MR190537 LLB C-3 (FOR THE OUTER SIDE) 1" https://www.Johnsonbearing.com and, Mark Parnell makes an adapter that works for the fronts as rears. Just drill 4 holes, that's simple enough.
Late 60's Yamaha LS2 100 REAR RIMS, also found on AT1, CT1, HT1, and CT2 models. Common sizes were 18 x 1.40 and 18 x 1.60 N/A N/A 1" Mark Parnell makes an adapter that works for it. Widening of the original holes in the hub aren't even needed. It bolts right on. You will have to slice off the outer and inner bearing areas for this one to work. Also, not all do work. Those hubs with OVAL holes won't work. Look closely, find the ones with 4 HOLES like the Honda Trail 90 Hubs.


Note, other 18" rims can work and be laced to a HONDA OEM hub. To do so, just get 175MM spokes.

Other common bikes that had 18" rims, 36 holes:
Suzuki TS100
Reference arena: (wanna know what bikes came with what? Look here. :)
Helpful when finding what size wheel a bike had.

Yamaha
Yamaha Off Road
Yamaha Street

Suzuki
Suzuki Off Road
Suzuki Street

Kawasaki
Kawasaki Off Road
Kawasaki Street

KTM
KTM Off Road

Honda
Honda Off Road
Honda Street
... to be continued...


Tires - 17"

Known tires best suited for CycleKarts: (in order from best overall to worst - top part of list)

  • Shinko SR241 - The most popular CK Tire hands down. Excellent overall tire with grip. Equally good on street or dirt. Soft Rubber, comes 17 x 2.00 through 3.00. Decent road life.
  • Michelin Gazelle M62 - on the heavy side, useless on dirt... but if worn down to the "happy spot" becomes one well performing street tire. Discontinued but can be found on ebay sometimes.
  • Duro HF308 2.75x17 41P - Good street tire and hard packed dirt. Performance good. Life Expectancy: unknown. We'll ask Dave when he burns through a set.
  • IRC NR53 (t10083) - 17 x 2.75, street tire.
  • Shinko 244 Dual Sport 38L - 17 x 2.50
  • IRC GP1 - common tire on the 2022 honda trail bikes. Usual size is 17 x 3.00. A taller tire, useful on Edwardian builds with 17" wheels.
  • Yokahama Y-962 - dual sport tire. Would be comparable to the Shinko SR241 if you find some. Came in many sizes, including 17 x 2.75 Discontinued but can be found on ebay sometimes.
  • Sava MC11 moped racing tire - 17 x 2.00 through 2.75, kick ass street performer, useless on dirt.
  • Sava B4 moped tire - 17 x 2.25 (possibly other sizes) Good on street, dirt... mmm, not so much.
  • IRC TR1 - Basically the same as the Shinko SR241 tread, comes in most sizes.
  • IRC NR21 - Good street tire, soft rubber, side walls are thin. Usless on dirt. Comes in 17 x 2.25, 2.75 and 3.00
  • Michelin City Pro - Initially sporty looking tire (probably why some bought them), pain in the ass to mount, harder rubber and heavy. A stiff stiff tire initially, Useless in any kind of performance arena unless worn down to some unknown and elusive "happy place." Useless on dirt... or anywhere if you want performance, looks nothing like a tire a period car would use.

    Other known tires
  • IRC NR-53 UNIVERSAL SCOOTER/MOPED TIRE 2.75-17 41P TT
  • Shinko SR704 - 17 x 2.25
  • Heidenau K46 moped tire - 17 x 2.75
  • Heidenau K36 moped tire - 17 x 2.50
  • Heidenau K58 Moped Tire - 17 x 2.75
  • Cheng Shin SR704 Scooter/Moped Tire 225-17, unknown performance, but they do fit.
  • Puch maxi-friendly KNOBBY party in 17 x 2.25
  • Dunlop Geomax MX 3SF 70/100-17 (low profile tire) about the same specs as a 17x275 tire. Full dirt knobby tire, stiff rubber, fairly lightweight
  • Dunlop Geomax MX 33F 70/100-17 (higher profile tire than above, overall same otherwise as above.

    Other Thoughts:
    ZAS distributors on Ebay, sometimes has oddball sets of tires that are different from over seas.


    White Walls
    There are some, made by Sava. However quite rare to see whitewalls on anything cyclekart related. Few cars would pull off the look.
    Look up Port-O-Wall. They're white wall rubber inserts that give you white walls, for far less. (keep in mind, few cars of the period actually had white walls)



    Other ramblings on wheels & how to find them:

    The options:

    1. Possibly Cheapest: Make them from scavenged crap, local ads, lucking out on ebay, finding one in the dumpster, etc.. Pitfalls: It's a crapshoot and one has to have some luck and be able to true wheels. General minimum: Junkard / ad finds. 30 to 50 per wheel. Maybe they have tires on them... that's nice. Maybe tubes. So you'll have to do the rear adapter at 150 and bearings around 32... and a total of: 200+maybe a tube repair kit 5.00 + 150.00 + 32 is: 387.00 (throw in a spare set of spokes you might have to buy too... minimum 30.00... max 100.)

    2. Most reliable way: Buy them new. 400 bones and then tubes, tires, bearings & some hub adapter: 700 ish. Shut up and have fun.

    3. Get really creative and use the aluminum rims from the mid 80's and 90s found on KX80, RM80, CR80 and YZ80 dirt bike front wheels. All you have to do is make an adapter and find the right bearing. Potential cost, taking into account availability: 50 -100 per complete wheel on ebay (they're aluminum.. no real rust issue) max 400 for rims, 140 for tires, tubes 15.00 each, bearings 32, and whatever you come up with for an adapter, say 100... IS: 732 ish. Bonus: aluminums drop 2+ lbs per wheel and if trued right, area amazingly strong. Rear wheels, just make sure to run the axle all the way though the hub, do not bolt rear adapter to just the disc brake mounts.. This includes the 28, 32 and 36 spoke versions. Worth noting: Wheels like these are competition off road wheels, they are strong and often have quite beefy spokes and the aluminum rim is a force all by itself. Even if they have little cracks, they still work.

    4. Buy the cheap moto X wheels at 50 each. (wheels only, no tires) Add tires, tubes, bearings.. and some adapter: 200 + 140 + 60 + 32 + say 100 for some adapter: 532.00 (and don't corner too hard... they might just give you the finger) The hub is or appears to be ok.. spokes are pretty tough too, but the rim... is thin. Commonly these wheels don't come true, and might need truing. Attempts at truing some, caused warping and it was witnessed on a real cyclekart that the spoke nipple pulled right through the rim. Over tightening, also can cause a crack at the nipple hole on the rim. If you have the dirt tires in the combo you bought, I'd wear them down. Traction is going to be a huge issue on the street. Common issues: buyin them in sets gets you the wrong size wheels. Like them? they're good for show and light usage.

    and of course, option 5. Make your own: by far the most expensive but cool. 70 Minimum for a good rim, 30 for cheap spokes (per wheel)... (100 if you want good ones) there's 400 already in spokes... make your own hub... LOL.. 1 in 1000 will even try it. So: Material, bearings, tires & tubes... If done right, make your own wheels will cost you: Material for the hub 100 or so + 280 for rims + 400 good spokes + 140 for tires + 60 for tubes, 32 for bearings and that's 1012 dollars.

    One Thousand, twelve dollars. Entire cyclekarts have been made for less and if you don't have the facilities to get it done yourself, add some random ridiculous figure to that to have someone make parts of that snazzy plan of yours.. If you own the machine shop... take away a smidge.

    option 6. Combine any of the above and you get what? Cost.

    7. Buy someone's stuff. Potential cost there: 500 + (that includes buying them from me at a mere 50 bones a wheel..) 200 + 50 shipping + 32.00 bearings + some adapter (probably 150 from mark parnell) tires 140, tubes 60, bearings 32 and that is: 632.00 If you lucked out here, and they had tires, tubes, etc... Even better. Still 500 usually. Add to the fun factor if you have used wheels that are cracked, really ads to the look and when you take your life into your hands in that fashion, bonus cyclekarter points for doing it.

    8. Pilfer them. LOL! Cyclekarts on cinder blocks is funny. Cost: Free Example coming soon.

    All of this, assumes a tire being a shinko sr241 17x2.75

    The single most costly item in cyclekarting, is the wheels people. Get creative, it can cost you less. But, if you're just gonna SCOFF at buying wheels, perhaps you shouldn't build a cyclekart.

    Any, 17" wheel that's 1.40 or 1.60 width, can work. You just gotta look.

    Thanks for reading.

    Be well.

    (if I failed at basic math.... apologies.)